Stuck and I Can't Get Out

scottglenn4

Shame on me, I didn't get out and I'm now stuck at an airport with runway closures due to a runway improvement project. In the long run, not a big deal as it will improve the airport. However, I won't be able to fly for about 2 months. I'm sure there are recommended procedures and I will look into those. However, I thought I'd toss it out to the group. Any recommendations on engine runs or other storage plans while I'm stuck? FYI, my airplane is a 1976 Piper Arrow II.

jacobsja

My vote is to just let the engine rest for that amount of time.

Happened to go through this cycle not too long ago. I got ahead of the event by getting on the mechanic's books to take care of some wish list items. Also got an Annual timed to complete about the time the airport reopened as I was nearly due anyway. Figured that the second order benefit was to help keep the shop folks somewhat employed during the down time. Hopefully they will remember this gesture when it comes time to chose priority of working on my plane or the flight school's plane. 

asikora1

In my opinion, the battery and engine will be fine to sit that long. But if it were me, I would probably start it up after a month, if I could do a run up, I would, just to charge the battery and have the oil lubricate the engine and warm up some. Then shut it down for the next month.

But I have no science to this, just my understanding of basic engine systems.

griff390

Adding to Asikora1's post: if you choose to run the engine on the ramp, make sure the oil gets up to 180 deg F (83 C), and then run it for a good 15-20 min at that temp.

Combustion produces water as a byproduct. It takes a minimum of 180 deg to vaporize the water out of the oil. Else, you have introduced water into your crankcase without giving it a chance to get out.

If it's only 2 mos, I wouldn't worry about running the engine.

scottglenn4

Thanks for your responses.

empannin

Always take the oil cap off immediately after running - water is a primary byproduct of combustion and it blows past the rings along with the lead and soot...

Burning a gallon of gas produces about 20 lbs of CO2 and about 1 gallon of water! Almost all of the water goes out the exhaust but even a fraction into the case adds up if it is not boiled away...

Don't forget your air filter either - 1 gallon of gas is about 6 lbs and at 16:1 mixture ratio almost 100 lbs of air is ingested for every gallon of gas burned.

jacobsja

Here is another thought if not already part of the decision tree.

Use the time that would have otherwise gone into flight time as primping time. Example, give the plane a good detail. Maybe do a ceramic polish as well. If possible, take out the carpets and give them a good clean.

planewrench

Personally at this point for 2 months I wouldn't do anything I wouldn't even run the airplane on the ground keep the birds out and if you're fortunate to have a cover to keep water and sun out of the cockpit would be great but two months isn't going to hurt the airplane at this point

Carl

rammstein1903

An engine saver (dehydrator) could help. I’d do that over randomly running the engine as water is a major product of combustion and will be in the crank case.

I have a Blackmax unit which I hook up after each flight just in case there is an unexpected, unplanned period before I can go up again.

The blackmax uses the refrigeration cycle for drying unlike desiccant like a couple other on the market.

I also have an Arrow II. If you decided to go that route, keep in mind that the ice hole in the breather is quite high and their catheter option won’t reach. When hooked up that way, the dry air blows across the rings into the cylinders. Unfortunately no bueno.

I, therefore, hook up to the oil filler and it bleeds out the oil breather. Because of that pressure loss, I doubt any air gets across the rings.

At some point I may try to figure out how to make a 20-some inch long catheter to implement in the better way.

Just my thoughts.

Dan

CherokeeCF-BLG

Phillips 66 Anti Rust Storage oil. My Cherokee is stored 6 months of winter using this stuff.

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/eppages/phillips20w50.php?clickkey=7865

CherokeeCF-BLG

Dehydrator spark plug in each cylinder.

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/eppages/dehydrplugs.php

Cherokee1

Hopefully the runway is done. I’m a little late to the convo but also be careful if just running the engine on the ground. The prop wash over the baffles will still not match the airflow as it would actually flying. Even if your oil temp hits the magic 180° mark, you can still get “hot-spots” on the cylinders that will do damage as well..

Lycoming recommends “cam-guard”. Add that in so it coats some internal parts and combat rust if not running for awhile. And when you do decide to crank her up, avoid pulling the prop through.

Safe flying..