Winterization Plate: How to Waste $70 in One Easy Lesson

I just spent $69.90 for a GENUINE PIPER winterization plate for my Cherokee 180C, and, boy, do I feel stupid. The parts guys actually laughed at my incredulous expression when I came in to pick up the part. So, to save any similarly-situated PA28 owners the same financial pain and personal embarrassment, here's how to make your own plate: Cut a piece of aluminum to 4.5" x 6". Hold it up to the attachment holes at the right rear of the engine compartment where the duct leads down to the oil cooler. Mark the location of the holes. Drill the holes. Attach the plate with No. 8 screws and bolts. Voila! You have a fancy winterization plate just like mine - but without the GENUINE PIPER reminder placard. Note: These instructions are good only for the PA28-150 and -160 from S/N 28-1761 and up, and the PA28-180 for S/N 28-1761 to -5149 inclusive.

mini_10012011-0821_Winterization-Plate.JPG

Comments

  • Aren't the dimensions identical for the 150Cand 160C as well?
    How thick is the plate?
  • Jim: on second look, it appears you are correct about the 150 and the 160. This plate (P/N 63492-00) is good for the 150 and the 160 from S/N 28-1761 and up, but only for S/N 28-1761 to -5149 for the 180. Edited my original post accordingly.

    I'm guessing the plate is only about 1/16" thick. Will report later after putting the calipers to it.
  • My fancy plate didn't come with any attachment hardware, and I can't find anything specified in the parts manual, so I just elected to use aluminum No. 8 screws with double nuts on the back. Other suggestions are welcome.
  • Fabricated a 65478-00 Winterization Plate for my 140B by transferring the measurements of the cooler opening and attachment hole locations to a piece of 0.063" 6061-T6 stock I had laying around as part of my Zenith CH650 project. Cut outline with hack saw, belt sanded edges straight/smooth, deburred, drilled 2 holes and created 1 slot. Painted with black satin Rust-Oleum. Still need placard 63408-00.
    Winterization Plate
    Painted Plate less Placard
  • My mechanic made them for me so I didn't have to buy Pipers. However, after making four plates (two per engine on my Seneca) I probably spent as much as buying Pipers. Oh well, they work!

    Scott Sherer
    Wright Brothers Master Pilot, FAA Commercial Pilot

  • I have seen several winterization plates for Cherokee 180s and Archers. Some are solid sheets of metal which allow no air to pass through to the cooler such as the one pictured above by PropFan. Others plates had holes in them to allow some air to pass through. My Archer has the solid plate and at cruise with a 40 degree ambient temperature, my JPI 830 engine monitor shows oil temperature of 210-215. Do you think this temperature is too high? Please share comments on oil temperature and winterization plates. Thanks.

  • I think that is a little too high. You’re looking for about 180. I flew today; with no plate (I should have one on, but I don’t) my oil temp was about 170 with an OAT of 10F at cruise. I went with a higher MP setting today because it was so cold out; this was at 23” and 2400rpm.

    Jim M.
    PA-28R-200
    Based at BUU
    ATC Chicago TRACON

  • 180 is the target but it's not that critical that you hit 180. You really just need your oil temp up warm enough and long enough to vaporize any water vapor.

    Scott Sherer
    Wright Brothers Master Pilot, FAA Commercial Pilot

  • edited January 2020

    My Arrow's winterization plate is round with a hole in the center. It goes in the oil cooler fresh air intake sceet hose.

    I love to defy gravity!
    1979 Arrow IV

  • Yes, I've seen pictures of those.

    Scott Sherer
    Wright Brothers Master Pilot, FAA Commercial Pilot

  • Harley, so is the one for my '69 Arrow. Not very convenient to install but it i effective.

    Jim Torley
    CFI-A/I/G
    1969 Arrow 200
    Based at KFLY (Colorado Springs, CO)

Sign In or Register to comment.