Scott,
Have you had any luck with the search of a source for a Trim Control Switch. I need a replacement. PN 762-226. It is for my Seneca II with the Century III AP. I have found some on the salvage market. The kicker is they will not sell just the switch. You must buy the entire yoke at $1300.00 to get the switch. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Hmmm. trying the boneyards like Wentworth might yield some results. Or an autopilot service center where they replace autopilots might have a used one, too. Like Autopilots Central or Mayday Avionics. Or any avionics shop, actually. New ones are a gouge, in my opinion. A couple of dollar switch... well, you know the rest.
Also, try this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/trimSwitches2.php?clickkey=5126
Hey Scott - do you know anyone that has installed the TRIM SWITCH CA3112-G from Spruce in one of our vintage of Cherokee's - it looks like it will fit and I have the wiring diagram from the Pitch Trim Service Manual but at $434 it would be nice to know for sure. I'm an Archer II PA28-181 SN 779035. Mine was disconnected but it is functional - I was interested in the comment that ScottG made about the movement not being precise enough. We're not interested in $434 for yoke art.
Hmmm @Unit74 I'm on the fence - I ordered the other one which is FAA PMA for our models - I have read about the contacts flaking out on the original units. For the purists, functional OEM units appear to be worth literally more than their weight in gold. If you get it out of there I would put it on eBay. I will report back here when I try the 3112-G and let you all know if this one works. BTW, Scott, your Airtex articles have been a huge help on our interior remodel. As a part of this we did the Eyebrow cover and glareshield when we replaced the windshield - I need to take some pictures and post in the restoration section.
Cygnet trim switch available on Aircraft Spruce website, $479. I had to get one to replace the cheap toggle trim switch Garmin included with GFC500 AP. If interested make this switch will work with your aircraft current configuration. Way to much money for a switch, but it is aviation, oh well!
John O’Leary
Turbo Arrow IV (KRKP)
CFI CFII CFIMEI (Gold Seal), ATP(MEL)
Wright Bros. Master Pilot
Here is the wiring diagram for the CA-3112 G. Basically it is two switches in the same housing but not connected. Generally how these are set up for is you look for the completion of both "trim up" switches to complete a circuit. If it is just one or the other it will not work as the circuit will not complete. This guards against runaway trim. I think some AP's put the motor load thru the switch which is hard as there can be voltage spikes on shutdown and the current is relatively high.
I think some of the piper trim switches are set up where one side of the slider energizes and the other side sets direction. If you have a partial failure take note if you can get any movement out of the system at all.
You should also know that it is very likely a shop took your expensive switch and wired it to too short wires using a $12 solder gun, and harbor freight solder. These things should come with waterproof 12 inch pigtails. You can instruct your shop to solder on the bench custom pigtails+ waterproof the connections. Then the electrical connection can easily be made without soldering in the switch cavity or other bad ideas. It is not just aesthetic. Overheated solder joints can permanently damage the switch and cold solder joints will break. Too much solder is is a short risk.
I think it would be possible to convert this type of switch to work for multiple planes although no legal basis if the wiring is changed + not cross listed as an approved part.
If you have never had a runaway trim this is what it is like. Imagine you are flying with a non-pilot friend and he has the controls flying straight/level. You say "My plane" and he slams the controls forward and won't let go... If it is running away from you you need to immediately disconnect power and don't rely on the trim override via clutch. I am glad I still have a manual trim wheel too.
Things that take you day from easy to hard in record time in a plane:
1) Engine failure
2) Runaway trim
2) Comm/Nav failure in IMC
There are plenty of other serious failures but often they are not "instant".
I had to replace my yoke Sw when I upgraded to Harmon auto pilot. Trim Ap disconnect and CB push to talk. I found one for Mooney yoke 3d printed bought it on esty. Com for 35$ works great!
Possible option is to locate a Beechcraft trim switch operates and looks the same if you leave the bezel off? I believe Central Auto Pilots might sell them? If I remember correctly it was half of what Piper wanted for a switch?
Comments
Scott,
Have you had any luck with the search of a source for a Trim Control Switch. I need a replacement. PN 762-226. It is for my Seneca II with the Century III AP. I have found some on the salvage market. The kicker is they will not sell just the switch. You must buy the entire yoke at $1300.00 to get the switch. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Duane
PA-34 200T
Hmmm. trying the boneyards like Wentworth might yield some results. Or an autopilot service center where they replace autopilots might have a used one, too. Like Autopilots Central or Mayday Avionics. Or any avionics shop, actually. New ones are a gouge, in my opinion. A couple of dollar switch... well, you know the rest.
Also, try this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/trimSwitches2.php?clickkey=5126
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/trimswitch11-15410.php?clickkey=5126
Scott Sherer
Wright Brothers Master Pilot, FAA Commercial Pilot
Hey Scott - do you know anyone that has installed the TRIM SWITCH CA3112-G from Spruce in one of our vintage of Cherokee's - it looks like it will fit and I have the wiring diagram from the Pitch Trim Service Manual but at $434 it would be nice to know for sure. I'm an Archer II PA28-181 SN 779035. Mine was disconnected but it is functional - I was interested in the comment that ScottG made about the movement not being precise enough. We're not interested in $434 for yoke art.
Hi, I don't have that info but I'm hoping someone on the forum might. What about Century Autopilots, do they have one?
Scott Sherer
Wright Brothers Master Pilot, FAA Commercial Pilot
I’m installing a GFC500 that comes with a Cignet switch.
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
Miner is 587 862 D * SWITCH - Manual electric trim (1C670)
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
Hmmm @Unit74 I'm on the fence - I ordered the other one which is FAA PMA for our models - I have read about the contacts flaking out on the original units. For the purists, functional OEM units appear to be worth literally more than their weight in gold. If you get it out of there I would put it on eBay. I will report back here when I try the 3112-G and let you all know if this one works. BTW, Scott, your Airtex articles have been a huge help on our interior remodel. As a part of this we did the Eyebrow cover and glareshield when we replaced the windshield - I need to take some pictures and post in the restoration section.
Cygnet trim switch available on Aircraft Spruce website, $479. I had to get one to replace the cheap toggle trim switch Garmin included with GFC500 AP. If interested make this switch will work with your aircraft current configuration. Way to much money for a switch, but it is aviation, oh well!
John O’Leary
Turbo Arrow IV (KRKP)
CFI CFII CFIMEI (Gold Seal), ATP(MEL)
Wright Bros. Master Pilot
Cygnet trim switch model number is CA3112-G
John O’Leary
Turbo Arrow IV (KRKP)
CFI CFII CFIMEI (Gold Seal), ATP(MEL)
Wright Bros. Master Pilot
I should have done my research before commenting, but the Cygnet Ca-3112 G trim switch works only with Garmin Autopilots.
Cygnet does make another trim switch, the CA-100, but i do not know what Autopilot(s) it works with.
John O’Leary
Turbo Arrow IV (KRKP)
CFI CFII CFIMEI (Gold Seal), ATP(MEL)
Wright Bros. Master Pilot
Here is the wiring diagram for the CA-3112 G. Basically it is two switches in the same housing but not connected. Generally how these are set up for is you look for the completion of both "trim up" switches to complete a circuit. If it is just one or the other it will not work as the circuit will not complete. This guards against runaway trim. I think some AP's put the motor load thru the switch which is hard as there can be voltage spikes on shutdown and the current is relatively high.
I think some of the piper trim switches are set up where one side of the slider energizes and the other side sets direction. If you have a partial failure take note if you can get any movement out of the system at all.
You should also know that it is very likely a shop took your expensive switch and wired it to too short wires using a $12 solder gun, and harbor freight solder. These things should come with waterproof 12 inch pigtails. You can instruct your shop to solder on the bench custom pigtails+ waterproof the connections. Then the electrical connection can easily be made without soldering in the switch cavity or other bad ideas. It is not just aesthetic. Overheated solder joints can permanently damage the switch and cold solder joints will break. Too much solder is is a short risk.
I think it would be possible to convert this type of switch to work for multiple planes although no legal basis if the wiring is changed + not cross listed as an approved part.
If you have never had a runaway trim this is what it is like. Imagine you are flying with a non-pilot friend and he has the controls flying straight/level. You say "My plane" and he slams the controls forward and won't let go... If it is running away from you you need to immediately disconnect power and don't rely on the trim override via clutch. I am glad I still have a manual trim wheel too.
Things that take you day from easy to hard in record time in a plane:
1) Engine failure
2) Runaway trim
2) Comm/Nav failure in IMC
There are plenty of other serious failures but often they are not "instant".
Eric Panning
1981 Seneca III
Hillsboro, OR (KHIO)
I found this link to a PDF of the legacy pitch trim service manual. I am hoping it will help someone!
https://www.comancheflyers.com/publication/view/piper-pitch-trim
Brian
1979 Arrow IV