Vinyl Graphics

N936BW

Does anybody have any experience with putting vinyl graphics such as accent stripes on their aircraft?

Austin

I have to some extent but mostly on large model airplanes. Plot out each one using masking tape or something like that. Have a paint tack rag handy and use it just before applying. A piece of dust will look like a boulder under the graphic. An extra set of hands are needed for the bigger stuff. Start from the middle and work out when sealing it in. If you get a bubble, prick it with a pin and get the air out using a burnishing tool.
It's no rocket science.
Austin

Harley Kleemann

Spray Windex where you want to apply the graphic. Lay the vinyl down where you want it, if it's slightly out of place, the Windex will enable you to slide it into position. Use a stiff squeegee to work the Windex and bubbles out from underneath, starting in the middle and working toward the edges. Let it dry a few days before you fly. This is how I have applied decals and vinyl graphics to my radio control aircraft for many years, and it works perfectly.

Scott Sherer

Thanks Harley

Austin

Use the "original" Windex. I was told the stuff with the ammonia may be a problem. Like Harley said, you can move it a little with the Windex under it. After it's dry you can wipe if the mess around it with a damp cloth.
Austin

Ray McNaught

At 3M's vinyl application training they discourage using anything other than Slip Solution (water with Baby Shampoo) on their vinyl at the rate of 2 drops of Baby shampoo in a quart of water. Wash the surface first to remove any dirt/abrasives, then wipe it down thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol/water (70% IPA to 30% H2O) to strip any wax, oil or other contaminants from the surface. Spray the surface, your fingers and the adhesive side of the vinyl with slip and position it on the surface. The slip solution floats the vinyl and helps keep the adhesive from adhering to the surface prematurely. If it begins to dry out you can lift the vinyl and spray it down again. When you have it positioned correctly use a squeegee to squeegee out the solution starting in the center of the graphic and working outward. squeegee slowly and with moderately firm pressure making sure you are working out the solution and pressing the adhesive onto the surface.

For lettering (Cut Vinyl) you normally apply it dry. Cut vinyl begins life as a solid sheet/roll of vinyl adhered to a release liner. It is fed into a contour cutter or drag knife cutter where the image is lightly cut into the vinyl but not into the liner. After cutting the unwanted vinyl is weeded or removed from the release liner and what remains is the vinyl you will apply to the surface. To keep all the lettering in its relative position a transfer tape or mask is applied to the cut vinyl. The transfer tape looks similar to masking tape but it has a lower tack (stickiness). The purpose of the transfer tape besides holding the cut vinyl in relative position during transfer to the surface is to pull the vinyl off of the release liner while holding it so you can squeegee it to the surface. Once it has been squeegeed onto the surface the very high tack of the vinyl holds it firmly to the surface and the lower tack transfer tape is pulled off. There are some good YouTube videos on applying cut vinyl that will help you to get a better picture of the process.

If you get (and you will!) air bubbles see if you can squeegee them together into a larger bubble. Depending on the type and tack of the vinyl this may or may not be possible. If you can aggregate the bubbles this will limit the number of bleed holes you will be putting in the vinyl to get the air out. If the vinyl is not a high tech air release type and has a very tacky adhesive you probably won't be able to aggregate the air bubbles. In this case, leave the smaller air bubbles alone and only poke holes in the larger ones. Vinyl is like the tires on your airplane or car and the air will eventually exhale through the vinyl and the vinyl will flatten out. This happens much faster in warmer weather by the way! A little patients will pay off in fewer bleed holes (damage) in the vinyl and a better looking final product.

If you are going over other than flush rivets the application complexity goes up a lot! For any aircraft application, I would specify nothing less than a Hi-Performance "CAST" vinyl! Avoid Calendared vinyl or you will hate yourself. The cost of using high-quality Cast Vinyl will be higher but it will last MUCH longer and will look good MUCH MUCH longer! For those raised head rivets you really want to use a modern high tech car wrap type of vinyl. This type of vinyl has air release channels formed into the adhesive and allows you to work the air out from under the vinyl before the adhesive is firmly squeegeed down. Most of the car wrap types of vinyl are referred to as positionable or slideable meaning you can position it directly on the dry surface lift it re-position or slide it around somewhat to get it right where you want it before squeegeeing it down!

If you are applying over raised rivets or severe compound curves I highly recommend using a professional installer it may be cheaper in the long run!

Scott Sherer

Thanks so much, Ray.

N936BW

Wow.. Thanks, Ray. That is great information.