Piper 28 Series door seals

jdbowmanjdbowman
in General Discussion
Aircraft Spruce sells door seals for the PA28 that attach either to the fuselage, or a special order unit that attaches to the door, as it came originally from the factory. The latter is more expensive. Does anybody know if they are equally effective in controlling water leaks around the door? Thank you for the input.
Dave at Blue Flight

Comments

  • jdbowmanjdbowman
    jdbowman wrote:
    Aircraft Spruce sells door seals for the PA28 that attach either to the fuselage, or a special order unit that attaches to the door, as it came originally from the factory. The latter is more expensive. Does anybody know if they are equally effective in controlling water leaks around the door? Thank you for the input.
    Dave at Blue Flight
  • flyguydonflyguydon
    Most PA28s leak around the door no matter what you do. They also leak around windows too. All the water ends up on the carpet so you do not know where it comes from.
  • jdbowmanjdbowman
    Hello Flyguydon
    I am new to this plane (Piper Archer) but was told that I needed to get the leaks “under control” because of the impact on the avionics. From what you said, it seems that it is just something to tolerate? True?
    Thanks
    Blue Flight
  • Jim WellsJim Wells
    Whatever you decide I would strongly discourage the airframe seals. I tried them once and they are easily damaged during entry and egress thru the cabin door. Also found they were not very effective.
  • wake8825wake8825
    I second what Jim Wells said. I have the airframe seal which was damaged almost immediately as a result of getting in and out of the plane.
  • jdbowmanjdbowman
    Thanks to Jim Wells and Wake8825 for the feedback. I had not considered the possibility of their being vulnerable to damage. Will go with the door mounted seal.
    Blue Flight
  • Piper-6Piper-6
    The constanat wet carpet is the main reason I bought a fuselage cover. It really helps.
    I also found that the window seals have a gap at the bottom. That needs to be sealed up or the whole seal replaced. I then found that there was a leak at the bottom of the windshield. I took the retainer strip off and sealed around the bottom of the windshield and put the retainer strip back on while the sealant was still wet.

    I now only get a little leakage when it rains heavy.

    The door hinges and seals are next.
  • sboothsbooth
    I have a 1970 PA28-180 and leaked badly when I bought it. I replaced the door seal with the seal on the door, also the clevis pins and eye bolts to make sure the door shuts correctly. Lastly I had the windows all resealed with pro-seal. I might get a few drops in from the door now top left corner area, but most of the problems are gone.
    Good luck.
    Steve
  • bigandybigandy
    I would agree that the door seals that attach to the door are longer lasting than the ones that attach to the door frame.

    I have used the http://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/index.php?cPath=21_26 - and the ones that attached to the door frame. Like other people have mentioned, these get kicked/scuffed when entering or egressing the plane. I spoke to Aircraft Door Seals when I was at 2010 Oshkosh, and they admitted that their newer variant which attaches to the door frame is better. Unfortunately, I had already installed some generic door seal from Aircraft Spruce by then.

    Another thought - if your plane is living outside, is to use a plane cover (Bruce's Custom Covers are great quality) then consider putting a piece of plastic to cover the door area underneath the cover. It's a bit of pain to do - but if you are leaving the plane outside, it may prevent the Cherokee flooding!
  • PANAM37PANAM37
    I HAVE NOT SOLD ANY FOR THE PA28,BUT I HAVE SOLD A LOT OF CESSNA 172 AND 206 SEAL KITS AND THEY WORKED WELL

    PETE OTT

    PANAMERICAN LOGISTICS
  • larenshawlarenshaw
    I used the more expensive seal from aircraft door seals and really like how it turned out. I still had minor wind noise at that aft problem corner and put some weather seal on the frame and that made it tight. I did pay paticular attention to the install instructions and got the door frame as clean from old glue as possible.I did do the hinge pins and adjusted the door for a tight fit all around. It is also a good time to look at the rubber grommet under the secondary latch as mine was about shot on my 71 cherokee.
    Larry
  • 140pilot140pilot
    I have had both seals, took the one from the inside channel out , it kept on breaking, went back to standard piper door seal but put the hollow center one in on the door. this worked. just adjust the door adjusters after.
  • airbusflyboyairbusflyboy
    I wanted to ask you about that hollow center design door seal ...................... How is it holding up and how much trouble to install ? What glue did you use ? I am getting ready to replace both the entry and cargo door on our Cherokee 180 C model. Thanks .....................
  • kentshawkentshaw
    I recently redid mine with with this seal: http://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/product_info.php?products_id=357 I am very pleased. They recommended that you use the 3M adhesive that comes in a tuble which they sell. I used a small utility brush to apply to the edge of the door and to the seal. I tryed to use masking tape to keep the glue off the outer edge of the door but the glue stuck to the masking tape. Seems to hold well and it creates a good seal. Definitely use the supplied grease on the seal since the rubber is a little sticky without it. Most of the reviews I have read advise you to avoid the fuselage seal because they do not hold up that well.
    .
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