Wheel fairing repair

I have a 1980 ArcherII. The holes for the Southco fasteners have worn the holes in the wheel fairing to where some of the heads are pulling through. I tried to overlay the holes using a marine fiberglass repair kit from Ace.
I cleaned, roughed up and cleaned with acetone, the point of overlay but the resin did not bond to the original material. It just peels off easily. Is there a specific type of resin needed to adhere to the wheel fairing? What type of fiberglass is it made with?
Thanks,
TMcC

Comments

  • Hi TM.
    Thanks for writing. I'm hoping a member with experience in this area will chime in. Stand by.

    Scott Sherer
    Wright Brothers Master Pilot, FAA Commercial Pilot

  • Hi TM,

    the factory service manual has procedures for "Fiberglass Fracture and Patch Repair," and "Thermoplastic Repairs," including all the materials and solvents required. Most of my airplane is thermoplastic - it was much cheaper to make back in the 70s and 80s. There is a specific method described for repairing holes and cracks in thin-walled sections. I can scan and post it, so long as you don't report me to the copyright police.

    Bob

  • Thanks Bob, that would be great. I had a 1974 Warrior that had plastic material on the wing and stabilator tips. This material has the mesh material pattern in it which I thought would be fiberglass. I am told by the locals that there are several types of resin and they are not all compatible.

  • TM - Here's the section from the repair manual.

    True story: When I first got the plane the pitch trim would stick at full deflection. We removed the plastic tail cone expecting to find the jack screw choked with crud. Nope. There were five generations of epoxy repairs, each layered on top of the previous one. The most recent repair rubbed against the bobbin, and that was causing the problem.

    Bob

  • edited April 2020
    TMcC;
    Whether you are repairing a thermoplastic or fiberglass part, I highly recommend an epoxy resin. Epoxy type resins are more expensive, but also more durable and flexible than polyester resins. Was your original repair made with polyester resin? What grit sandpaper did you use to rough up the surface?

    Jim "Doc Griff" Griffin
    PA28 - 161
    Chicago area

  • Bob, thanks for the repair information.
    Jim, the resin in the kit I used is Styrene and I used a 36 grit sandpaper to rough up the back of the area. I was told to score it with the grit for bonding to original part.
    A hangar neighbor said he could help me with the epoxy resin if this kit did not work well. Thanks for all the information and I'll give an update as it goes forward.
    TMcC

  • TMcC;
    Excellent, 36 grit is correct for the work you're doing, (even 24 is good) so you're on the right track. Definitely go with epoxy resin, and make sure it's formulated to work with plastic and/or fiberglass. I think you'll see a huge difference. Good job, and post pics when its done.

    Jim "Doc Griff" Griffin
    PA28 - 161
    Chicago area

  • Jim, are you any relation to the founder of Griffin Avionics, over here in Cape Cod? Bob Tingley

  • Bob;

    Not that I know of, but wish I was related to Merv! :)

    Jim "Doc Griff" Griffin
    PA28 - 161
    Chicago area

  • Thanks guys I'll keep you posted.

  • Years ago, I had damage to a main gear wheel pant. My mechanic gave me the name of a local guy who did Fiberglas repair on boats. I brought him the wheel pant and when I picked it up about a week later it looked brand new! I recall his charge was very affordable and 20+ years later, it’s still good!

    • Michael Jay Jones (MikeJJ)
    • Piper Owners Aviation Director, Forum Moderator, Author
    • Commercial, Instrument, CFI - Airplane
    • Commercial Helicopter, Remote Pilot - UAS
    • FAA Wright Brothers Master Pilot
    • 50+ years in aviation, and still learning!


  • MikeJJ - Agreed. Boat repair shops and Corvette repair shops will be well versed on fiberglass repairs.

    Jim "Doc Griff" Griffin
    PA28 - 161
    Chicago area

Sign In or Register to comment.