While not asked, I switched to PRIST at the advice of a local CFI whom had seen other cleaners cloud the plexiglass over time. Windows already have some crazing and I do not want to add any opacity.
That’s why I use Washwax All on the windows, and entire plane for that matter. In 7 years, my windows still look new. I used Plexus Before that with excellent results as well.
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
not that I have seen. A real pro might be able to use micro abrasives but even then, I don’t think it would be all that great. I sure as H E double hockey sticks would not try it myself unless I already planned on replacing them and had the cash to do it right now. It would be more of an experiment knowing they are already coming out.
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
Unit74's advice is good. If you're hesitant to do it yourself, hire a professional.
The starting point depends on where the "fogging" is manifested. In general, fogging occurs on the surface, but if it has penetrated the plastic, then you're most likely going to be browsing the internet for new windows. In that case, you may try whatever you want, because as Unit suggests, you have nothing to lose.
The good news is that with the correct compounds and techniques, surface fogging can be removed or at minimum, make your windows better than they are now. Unless you are very skilled with a high speed buffer, I strongly recommend a good quality orbital buffer instead. The orbitals are somewhat fool proof (unfortunately, every time I say that, they come up with a better fool).
Start by using a polishing compound formulated for plastic, with no abrasives and either a wool or synthetic pad (not foam). Kits to repair fogged car headlights may be your friend here. Some of them contain compounds that work very well.
Follow the directions on the polish container, but a good rule of thumb is move the buffer no more than 12 inches per 20-30 sec. Wipe the polished area with a microfiber cloth, and see if it made a difference. If yes, continue until done. If not, you may need to use a buffing/cutting compound (use the lightest abrasive you can find). If that works, clean the windshields and follow up with the polishing compound and a foam pad.
Fogging may also be on the inside. If so, you'll have to either polish by hand or remove the windows/windshields to use a machine.
Seems to me that if the windows need to come out in order to polish haze away, might as well get new windows. Especially as this is likely a band-aid approach to avoid cost of replacing the windows. Touch once.
My baggage windows are fogged so I may do some scientifically controlled experimentation.
By suggesting I try an orbital polisher using a non abrasive compound what I am hearing you say is the 3/4HP belt sander with an 80 grit belt is ill advised?
Comments
Absolutely! Just be sure they are clean as those microfibers like to catch micro abrasives 😬
Thanks
X-2 on using microfiber cloths.
While not asked, I switched to PRIST at the advice of a local CFI whom had seen other cleaners cloud the plexiglass over time. Windows already have some crazing and I do not want to add any opacity.
That’s why I use Washwax All on the windows, and entire plane for that matter. In 7 years, my windows still look new. I used Plexus Before that with excellent results as well.
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
Is there any way to clear windows that have forged a little?
1973 Arrow II factory AC removed
G5’S, G275, GNX375 Still can get lost.
not that I have seen. A real pro might be able to use micro abrasives but even then, I don’t think it would be all that great. I sure as H E double hockey sticks would not try it myself unless I already planned on replacing them and had the cash to do it right now. It would be more of an experiment knowing they are already coming out.
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
Resq;
Unit74's advice is good. If you're hesitant to do it yourself, hire a professional.
The starting point depends on where the "fogging" is manifested. In general, fogging occurs on the surface, but if it has penetrated the plastic, then you're most likely going to be browsing the internet for new windows. In that case, you may try whatever you want, because as Unit suggests, you have nothing to lose.
The good news is that with the correct compounds and techniques, surface fogging can be removed or at minimum, make your windows better than they are now. Unless you are very skilled with a high speed buffer, I strongly recommend a good quality orbital buffer instead. The orbitals are somewhat fool proof (unfortunately, every time I say that, they come up with a better fool).
Start by using a polishing compound formulated for plastic, with no abrasives and either a wool or synthetic pad (not foam). Kits to repair fogged car headlights may be your friend here. Some of them contain compounds that work very well.
Follow the directions on the polish container, but a good rule of thumb is move the buffer no more than 12 inches per 20-30 sec. Wipe the polished area with a microfiber cloth, and see if it made a difference. If yes, continue until done. If not, you may need to use a buffing/cutting compound (use the lightest abrasive you can find). If that works, clean the windshields and follow up with the polishing compound and a foam pad.
Fogging may also be on the inside. If so, you'll have to either polish by hand or remove the windows/windshields to use a machine.
Jim "Doc Griff" Griffin
PA28 - 161
Chicago area
Seems to me that if the windows need to come out in order to polish haze away, might as well get new windows. Especially as this is likely a band-aid approach to avoid cost of replacing the windows. Touch once.
@griff390
@Unit74
My baggage windows are fogged so I may do some scientifically controlled experimentation.
By suggesting I try an orbital polisher using a non abrasive compound what I am hearing you say is the 3/4HP belt sander with an 80 grit belt is ill advised?
1973 Arrow II factory AC removed
G5’S, G275, GNX375 Still can get lost.
That will work, but only if pretreated overnight with hydrochloric acid. Best to spray the whole plane down generously for best results.
I own and fly a 79 PA32RT-300T. Previous aircraft are a 79 Archer and 76 Arrow.
Excellent thought. Always best to plan ahead.
1973 Arrow II factory AC removed
G5’S, G275, GNX375 Still can get lost.